How to start as a trader, and have a good chance of making it.I have written on this subject before, see my signature.
There is more though.
If you are starting out, there is a LOT you need to know. I will start with some basics. Some of them you may scoff at, and say I am wrong, but I can assure you I am not. Truly.
Read my previous post here:
After reading that, you may well think again about trying trading. If the idea of taking a long time (at least 6-8 months for a natural) to learn something bothers you, or you need to make money NOW , then I would advise you that trading is not for you, or not yet, at least. For a start, being impatient is the absolute worst trait you can possibly have.
If you still want to continue, then I can help you.
You will have to have the patience to read a lot of words.
1. Pick an instrument you want to trade. If you are a stock trader it's different, because you should be trading the stocks that are "in play" that day. Typically I'd recommend the day after results/news came out, rather than the actual day itself, when you are starting out. Why? It's easier to see the way the price is trending, and the trend is your friend.
If you are not trading stocks, I would recommend either a share index like SP500 or NASDAQ or FTSE or DJ30, or an FX pair that is NOT EURUSD. Oil and Gold are Ok too. Crypto I would not recommend for a beginner.
Reasons: Let's start with Crypto. The big players can pay the exchanges, perfectly legally, to see your orders and stop-loss levels. This is not a personal vendetta against you. They can see the aggregate levels of millions of traders, and thus learn how to trigger bulk stop losses to make money off you directly. This is not legal in the other markets. The same manipulation is still possible, but not to the same extent.
Why not EURUSD? It's the biggest and most popular FX pair, so the most big-boy games are played there, see the Crypto explanation above. The banks have access to millions of client positions, so they can see when their clients get squeezed, and they assume (usually correctly) that other banks' clients will be in the same boat.
Why the rest? Tight spreads are common (look it up if you don't know what a spread is). Banks exert less control (though still some).
Why pick one instrument? because you need to LEARN how it trades. This may seem weird, but each has its own character, and if you trade more than one, you won't notice it. You may be saying "But one pair will only give a few opportunities each day/week, why not trade more than one? This is related to a recurring theme in the way I teach: "Fewer trades, more quality trades, higher confidence trades". If you properly learn the character of one pair, then it's better than guessing in 3-4 pairs. A LOT better for your profits, and that is what counts.
Next I am going to say only risk a max of 1% of the account per trade, and again your reaction might be "How am I going to make decent money with tiny risk like that?" Do the maths. If you do four trades a week(yes really just 4 a week), two wins and 2 losses at 2.5R (R is risk reward, so you lose max of 1%, and make 2.5% if you are right, then you will be up 3% in the week. 3% compounded over a year is 330%. Wow. How many hedge funds make that? You won't make as much as 3% a week, probably, but hopefully you can see that this is not too small. When you consider that a loss of 10% will blow most prop firm evaluations (see later), and even a good trader will some day lose 10 in a row just from bad luck, then 1% seems fine.
So, we have one instrument and 1%. Next, paper trade first. Make your foolish mistakes on paper. Select a demo account and do not lodge funds with any broker at first. Choose a broker that offers consumer protection. This means that they are authorised/regulated by your country's regulator. Always do this.
2. Let's say you have succeeded at paper trading over a couple of months and you are tempted to start trading your own money. Stop. Lodging $5000 or more and just kicking off is not the way. 90% of new traders lose 90% of their money in the first 90 days of real trading. Instead, look up prop firm evaluation accounts. Also look up how to choose one, as they are not all the same by any means. This will give you the opportunity to trade a $10k account for $100. Your risk is $100 only. Typically, if you make 10% (ie $1000 in this example, then you get a "real" $10k account. Don't buy any more than a $10k account at first. You will learn so much more from this account (where if you lose you lose real money, even if it is only $100), than you did from the paper trading account. Real money = real pressure. You will really want to convert the account, and not blow it. It's pride I know, but it is much more realistic than a demo account. Paper trading is crap, really. Just use it to find the pitfalls of trading and learn the character.
More tips in Part 2, but till then, think on this: Pass your $10k evaluation. make another $1000 in real money, keep $500 and pay $500 for a $80k evaluation. Now we're cooking.
